Elk Rock Garden

The Human Animal in the Urban Jungle

I live in a large city. The largest city in the state of Oregon. And while Portland is a green city by U.S. standards, it is still an urban jungle. Lots of concrete, asphalt, impermeable hot surfaces, lack of mature trees in many neighborhoods, too many cars on the road, shrinking habitat for wildlife….the typical city scene, which is, among many other things, a damaged and depleted ecosystem.

Since I am but a furry mammal, as are you, my body reacts to being in a damaged, dry, hot, and depleted urban environment. There are many urban heat islands on the east side of Portland where I currently call home, and I often get out of my neighborhood to find places to walk under more tree canopy, and be surrounded by more wildlife, and less stimulation. All of us urban dwelling nature lovers need to find pockets of the wild so we can soothe the nervous system and reconnect to earth. Green space in a city, even the smallest amount, brings moisture and cooler temperatures to it, and draws in insects, birds, and pollinators.

Recent science shows that getting as much time outdoors is essential, and improves our mental health. Recent studies have also shown that excessive urban noise can affect our central nervous system and mental health. Because of this, many of us may feel an overwhelming need to find quiet places. We may be feeling an intense need to cultivate relationship with land near us. We may feel restless and unsettled indoors in the city.

Thankfully, there are a lot of options near me. Portland has some well maintained nature parks that are still wild spaces to some extent–such as Forest Park, Powell Butte Nature Park and Tryon Creek Natural area. Forest Park extends over 5,200 acres, with 80 miles of trails. It is one of the largest urban forests in the U.S. Powell Butte is the second largest nature park in the city next to Forest Park. It sits atop an extinct volcano, and consists of 611 acres of meadowland and forest. Tryon Creek State Natural Area is considered an Oregon state park, and the only state park within a major metropolitan area, with 665 acres of forest, creek, and trails. 

Places with cultivated nature can sometimes feel like an urban escape for me as well. Some of my favorite parks and gardens in Portland are the rose garden at Peninsula Park, which feels like a scene from an old fairy tale, Mt. Tabor Park, which is built on top of one of Portland’s extinct volcanoes, Leach Botanical Garden, and Elk Rock Garden.

Elk Rock Garden

Something about Elk Rock Garden has always felt very special to me. Hidden, artistic, historic. A place to hide out for hours and be quiet. I have sat on a bench overlooking the Willamette River and written many times, with the wind rustling the leaves, my hair, and my heart. I return again and again, because the garden is different in every season, as all gardens are. You don't really know a piece of land until you know how it changes over the seasons, like knowing its moods. I love the mature redwoods, the cliffs overlooking the Willamette, the pond, the impressive old Oregon White Oaks, and the field. The garden is an interesting blend of native and ornamental plants. I love the way that it feels a little bit like my own secret hideaway in Portland, with historic mysteries waiting to be unveiled. I always wonder who has walked or sat in these same places as I over the years. What brought them here as well?

For a place I kept returning to, I knew very little about the place. I only knew that the estate and gardens had been owned by a Scottish immigrant at one point in the past. I decided that it was time to learn more about this place that I enjoyed so much. So, I got in touch with the executive director, Stephanie Brown, and we sat down in the estate house (what a treat!),  and walked some of the grounds, and had a great conversation.

The History of Elk Rock Garden

Stephanie has an enthusiasm and wisdom about the garden that I found impressive. She herself has a long history of loving and visiting the garden, before stepping into the role of Executive Director. She was able to share so much with me, including historic photos and maps.

In the 1880’s, Peter Kerr moved from Scotland for business, and was here for a temporary stay. He fell in love with the area, and asked to be assigned to Portland for business again. Eventually he returned to Portland in the 1890’s with his brother and business partner. They ended up renting a cottage that was sitting on the property that Elk Rock Garden currently sits on.

He began planting trees on the property even as a renter. Peter eventually bought 13 acres, though today the property is about 9 acres. Eventually, the Olmstead Brothers Landscape firm, who helped establish the Portland Public Parks plan, helped Peter with the estate design by giving some suggestions. They suggested a house be built that take full advantage of the mountain view, a water diversion to create the small waterfall that is there now, and they suggested removing fruit trees that Peter had planted.

Peter lived in the house for 60 years in his mid 90’s and improved on the property the entire time, until his death. The family donated the property to the Episcopal church in 1959, until 2022, when the property went back on the market. The donation agreement stipulated that the church had to make the garden open to the public, and that if the church ever wanted to sell, they had to reach out to the oldest living descendant of Peter Kerr, and allow the family the opportunity to buy it back. According to Stephanie, when the church listed the property for sale in 2022, a number of Kerr descendants, as well neighbors of the garden, and community members who loved and wanted to save the garden, all worked together to raise the $4.5M needed to purchase the property. The property is now owned by the 501c3 Elk Rock Garden Foundation. The Garden is now listed in the National Register of Historic Places.

The non-profit Friends of Elk Rock Garden had long helped with garden upkeep, and continue to be involved. Stephanie joined the board of Friends of Elk Rock Garden in 2023, and is now in the role as Executive Director. They now have 3 employees, one of them being a full time gardener. The garden has been free to the public since 1959. Stephanie said that people come from all over the world to see the garden, and that the peace and solitude are what bring people here. That is something I understand fully.

Hand-tinted image of Elk Rock Garden, 1925. Photo courtesy of the Kerr Family.

Photo credit: Stephanie Brown, https://elkrockgarden.org/gallery/

From https://elkrockgarden.org/gallery/

Sustainability and Climate Adaptation

Stephanie explained that the focus of the garden now has turned towards environmental education, climate adaptation, and historic preservation. They are especially focused on reducing water usage, which is essential in such times we find ourselves in globally, but especially here in the western U.S. Last season, the gardener trialed a native meadow, which would need little water, and it did well, and actually extended beyond their created boundary, so it was a success, and will hopefully grow.

The property is working with the West Multnomah Soil and Water Conservation District on an oak tree care plan, invasive plant removal, and is acting as a monitoring station for Mediterranean oak borer. The Oregon white oaks on the property are about 250 years old, and having assistance to care for the beautiful old trees is a wise move.

The garden has been in our local news lately, as the University of Oregon Pacific Northwest Field School program celebrated their 30th anniversary year with an immersive three-week residency at Elk Rock Garden. The students stayed on the property, and practiced restoration skills, gardening on the grounds, stained glass repair, woodworking, and built retaining walls, among other preservation activities. Stephanie expressed a lot of excitement over the work that was done to preserve the estate during those 3 weeks, but also the relationships being built, and the educational opportunities the estate provides.

The Olmstead Network states on their website that Elk Rock Garden’s mission "extends beyond garden preservation to education and innovation. The garden’s leadership believes in the value of garden landscapes to inspire joy, offer peaceful enjoyment, and promote biodiversity and climate-resilience."

The garden has volunteer opportunities, which I signed myself up for, and you can as well, easily located on the garden website. I find that being of service to something outside myself keeps me right with the world, and keeps me connected to the land around me that I love. If you haven't visited Elk Rock Garden, and are in the Portland metro area, I invite you to do so! It is at 11800 S. Military Ln., in Portland’s Dunthorpe neighborhood. See if you can find the perfect quiet, hidden spot there.